We're anticipating a few questions from people who are moments (literally, in a few cases) from getting their frames. Here goes:
Internal cable routing: We tested each cable stop/internal routing location to make sure that end caps fit at every one. They do. We left the little Teflon tubes in there. You can use the Teflon tubes to thread your cables, but they aren't necessary. The cables just shoot right out the other end, guided by the internal sleeves. Easy peasy lemon squeasy. But yes, Virginia, you do use end caps everywhere the housing stops (depending on which brakes you use - some brakes don't use stops).
The little nylon washer: The fork legs, you'll notice, are pretty beefy. Use the nylon washer as a spacer to get the brake pads to clear in front of the fork legs. The toothed washer that came with your brakes goes against the frame, then the nylon washer, then the rest. It may be that some brakes don't require this, but all of the brakes we've installed need this extra 1/8" of clearance.
Chainstay protector: We included one. It's up to you if you want to use it or not, but we recommend it. When it gets skanky you can peel it off and get a fresh one.
The seatpost collar clamp: It's got two bolts. Sort of a belt and suspenders deal. The top bolt secures the clamp to the post, the bottom bolt secures the clamp to the frame, and also secures the clamp to the post. It's a good design that is often replicated by using two separate seatpost collar clamps. It works great.
Headset/steerer expander plug: The only function that the expander plug plays is to initially compress the headset and seat the bearings, and to compress the stem down onto the steerer tube. Once the stem is installed and tightened, the expander plug is officially on vacation. Don't overtighten the stupid thing and split your fork!
BB cup installation: The drive side bb cup threads backwards - righty, loosey, left, tighty. The non drive is lefty, loosey, righty, tighty. Please don't thread them the wrong way. It's a nightmare to deal with, if it can be dealt with. Your frame has had an Ultegra bb treaded into it. You should not need anything more than your hand (unless your hands are notably weaker than mine) to get it all the way in. For final torque you will need the appropriate bb wrench. Torque to bb recommendation.
Stem installation: I like Finish Line Carbon Assembly Paste. Torque your stem bolts only to the stem manufacturer's recommendation, which is almost always 5nm. Honk down on that sucker with a long allen bolt and a cheater bar and you're cracking your steerer.
Derailleur hanger: The hanger screw holes in the frame are not threaded. The hanger itself is threaded. Each frame has had the derailleur hanger checked for fit. They require a slight press to seat correctly. Press to seat, then screw it in. Those are tiny little bolts. Not much torque is needed.
BB cable guide: The bb cable guide should be very self explanatory. The front derailleur cable goes through the little tube in the frame and up to the derailleur. You'll see it. It makes sense.
Fork crown race: Just push it on. It'll go.
Most of these are really standard bike assembly things. Anything not specifically mentioned is definitely standard bike building stuff.
Check your tires and your skewers before every ride.
Enjoy.
Race smart.
10 comments
Received my Wheelhouse yesterday. Everything looks great, build in process. Couple of build questions…1.) Are you saying there are permanent internal sleeves inside the frame tubing for the internal cable routing?2.) Where the front der cable comes up and out of the frame at the BB shell/chain stay joint…should there be a rubber boot there to prevent moisture/crud from entering the frame through that tiny hole?Thanks—Steve.
Hi Steve-When we ship we usually use USPS, and we have tracking info emailed to customers. It sounds like you never got yours, so I'll send you an email with it. USPS does whatever USPS does with your packages normally – we don't require a signature as that usually delays delivery by days and days while recipients try to coordinate with USPS.
@Steve: Sram Rival, so under the bar tape. I did just trim the teflon tubing down and slid it in there, and the rattling is gone. No discernable difference in cable drag, so it should be a good fix.
@ike: Are you running old school Shimano brifters, or ones with the derailleur cables under the bar tape? I'm running old school and so get some rattle of cables against each other and up against the stem/bar from below, but no discernible buzzing from the internal stuff.
Any suggestions on eliminating brake cable rattle through the internal routing? I get a nice buzzing sound over rough pavement, eliminated when I put a little bit of pressure on the brake lever. I'm thinking just cut the teflon tubing to length and leave it in there.